Saturday, September 15, 2018

ALONG THE WAY; COOL THINGS ABOUT "BORING" SIGHTS


  HEADING UP TO THE MARQUETTE  COUNTY AREA OF CENTRAL WISCONSIN  -about 45 min north of Madison- to check out one of the many clear lakes around there.
   Can't wait to get there. I always get so revved up for these lake destinations that I miss out on some of the joys of the journey.  Here's some cool things about common sights we see along Wisconsin rds.
   
  STRAY BOULDERS -"Thats A Nice Boulder"  -Shrek's Donkey (or other comments of pretend interest)

    We occasionally see a seemingly misplaced boulder sitting by itself in a field. A little study & I learn they are indeed misplaced; lost children that got "kidnapped " by glaciers from the mother rock (geologists call it Parent Bedrock) & carried away -sometimes hundreds of miles- & plopped down in random spots by the receding/melting glacier.
    These displaced rocks are called erratics which means wanderers.
    How they got into these random spots was a head scratcher to rock heads for many years. Geologists now widely accept glaciers as the culprit.
    These "lost children" can be any size; many ton SUV size & bigger to pebble size.  I find it amazing that some erratics in Waushara county Wisconsin -near Milwaukee- were diamonds. One was a 15 carat diamond!

   
GRASS  -Not many sights more common 😒 than grass; grass along the road in endless variety, grassy hills, golf courses, even the corn & wheat fields are grass. I see so much grass that I definitely don't appreciate it.

  •  Grass is the great ground gripper, keeping soil from being washed away. 
  • Grass sustains the world more than any other plant; corn, rice, wheat & oats are grass. Cattle graze on grass -to grow up to become steaks & hamburgers. 
  •  Grass is ultra important as cover & nesting for wildlife. 
  • It is a prime factor in the life cycle of butterflies & moths, which are so important as pollinators for life giving plants.   
                  
  In my attempt to perk up my weak appreciation for grass, we gathered seed from roadside grass & turned it into flour & made an amazingly delicious bannock bread out of it. Can't wait to have this with our next fish fry -add to the spirit of the meal.

    TURKEY VULTURES  -Often mistaken for eagles or hawks, these 6 ft wing span, high
flying black feathered birds are a common sight along our routes from spring to fall.
  • Vultures are the best gliders in the world! They are the supreme experts at getting the most out of air currents to conserve energy  -you hardly see them flap a wing. 
  • Turkey vultures are not birds of prey. They don't have killer talons. They specialize on eating what's already dead. Their naked,
    lovely 😕, pink head is designed so that excessive bacteria doesn't cling to them after they've stuck their head into very "ripe" places -nice. They have a very acidic stomach to kill harmful microbes that are in their bacteria filled meals. 
  • Turkey vultures smell good  - i.e. they are unique in the bird world for their smelling ability. They often fly low to the ground to catch the smell of decay. They've learned to cruise our highways in search of our next subject:

   ROAD KILLED DEER  -Sorry, not the sweetest of subjects, but how does such a wild & elusive creature, like deer, get hit so often by vehicles?

    In the grand scheme of time, vehicles & roads have only been on the scene for a short time -less than a hundred yrs. The divinely equipped ability of creatures to adapt & survive has not had much time to develop.
   To deer, vehicles must appear like non predatory creatures that mind their own business -staying on their paths, not at all threatening -totally lacking the appearance of any stalking ability.  Yet, they have an unnatural speed that is hard for deer to calculate  -like an elephant with cheetah speed, that is not so good at sharing their trails. These trails/roads have been layed accross land that deer have travelled without problem for many centuries.
 
  DEER IN THE HEADLIGHTS -As hard as it may be for a deer to get along with vehicles  in daylight, at night things are worse.
   Deer can see in the dark much better than we can because of the extra photo receptors in their eyes. Shine a spotlight -headlight- in a deer's eyes & the blinding effect is much worse than it'd be for us; add that blindness to the difficulty of processing the speed of a creature that doesnt give itself away with footsteps - an oncoming vehicle must sound like an approaching gust of wind, not a pouncing predator. The results are disastrous.

     WHAT HAPPENS TO WISCONSIN ROADKILL? A roadkill cleanup business is contracted by the Wisconsin Department of Transportation to do the job. They get paid bout $52 a deer.
    On rural rds animals are usually just moved off the rd, pulled into the ditch a distance, & left to contribute their bodies to the ecosytem. On other rds they're brought to landfills.
 
   Can't leave the subject of whitetail deer without mentioning a couple outstanding facts about LIVE deer:

  • Wisconsin has the biggest bucks in the United States! (the most in the Boone & Crocket record book).
  • Bucks lose & regrow antlers every year. Deer antlers are the fastest growing biological tissue in the world.
  • The most famous bow hunter of all time -Fred Bear, travelled the world hunting, says whitetail deer are the most elusive, difficult animal to hunt.
   
   
  GOLDEN ROD   -We see alot of these good looking bushy bursts of golden yellow flowers lining the roadside in late summer. Sometimes called "showy golden rod."
  • Young golden rod leaves are edible. Native Americans chewed them to relieve sore throats & toothaches. We tried some leaves & they were amazingly terrible 😝 -dont think they were young enough. 
  • Leaves & flowers make a great tasting tea. We tried the tea made mostly from the flowers. With some sweetener added it was very good. Supposed to be good for kidney issues & have a general anti-inflamatory effect.
  • You can make rubber from golden rod! Thomas Edison experimented with using golden to make rubber. His friend -Henry Ford- gave him a Model T that had tires made from goldenrod rubber. 
  • Growing along side of and at the same time of yr as ragweed, golden rod gets falsely blamed for causing allergies -"hay fever." But its pollen doesn't travel well in the wind -i.e. doesn't make it to our noses like ragweed pollen.
   
     "JUST A ROBIN"

  This story has stuck with me through the years. It comes from tracker/survivalist teacher Tom Brown Jr.
 Tom was then a young apprentice tracker to an apache indian that he calls Grandfather:
     "I once watched Grandfather gazing at a distant bush, thoroughly engrossed in some movement. He stood for the better part of an hour, silent & still, eyes glued to that bush. I could tell by the way that bush moved it was some sort of bird. And by the way Grandfather was paying attention, it must have been some exotic, exciting bird, I thought. I slowly stalked toward Grandfather, desperate to see what had so captivated his attention...Just as I was about to ask what type of bird he was watching, a common robin flew from the bush. Robins were as common as pine trees, so I continued to stare at the bush, but there was no longer any movement. I asked  Grandfather what he was looking at and, smiling; he replied "A robin." "But, Grandfather," I attested, "it's just a common robin. What's so interesting about a robin?" His smile broke to a frown of displeasure and he muttered, "Just a robin!" With that he took a stick and drew a picture of a bird on the ground and, handing me the stick, he ordered, "Show me where all the black marks on a robin are located." He then asked me what color the robins' feet were, the color of each feather, and excactly how they build their nests.
    Needless to say, I was humiliated, I had no answers; I didnt even have the vaguest idea how many black marks the bird had. I looked at Grandfather sadly and admitted, "I just dont know." "Then," he instructed, "it's not just a robin. No two robins are ever the same." he continued; "each is as different as you and I, and we can never exhaust the possibilities of learning something new each time we observe a robin. That is also true of everything else in life, every experience, every situation, every bird, tree, rock, and leaf, for we can never know enough about anything. "Finally," he continued, "you do not even begin to know an animal until you touch it, and feel its spirit. Then and only then can you ever begin to know."


 



Monday, September 3, 2018

MAIDEN LAKE -"NORTHERN CARIBBEAN GEM"

  "If there is magic on this planet, it is contained in water." -Loren Eisely

 ON THE HUNT AGAIN FOR CLEAR water lakes in Wisconsin. Maiden lake is in Oconto county in northeast Wisconsin; About 60 miles NE of Wausau. The nearest town is Lakewood.

  We're visiting this lake on a tip from a couple I met while exploring Big Newton lake near Crivitz. They spoke of this lake as their favorite; "a beautiful, white bottom, aqua colored, northern caribbean gem!"

  BIRDS EYE VIEW 
    On our trip north, a high flying eagle would see less agriculture lands, fields & prairies & an ever increasing density of forests.  Maiden Lake sits just barely in the southern tip of the Northwoods.
   Sandy soil, cooler temps, & shorter growing season are bad for the usual ag crops we see in the south  -like corn & soybeans, but good for pine & birch forests that out compete most other deciduous trees from here on & cover 75% of this Great North -giving us that Northwoods look, feel & smell!
 
   Glacier effect on this part of Wisconsin  has produced a soil & landscape that makes for plenty of bogs, swamps & lakes...MAIDEN LAKE! 
     
   BIRDS (Loon's) EYE VIEW -Below the Surface
    This wonderfully clear lake does have a beautiful aqua-turquoise color & whiteness on the bottom due to the limestone, clay, marl sediment.
    Occasionally I see strange looking springs perculating from the bottom, looks like boiling cream of wheat. I swim down to get a closer look -very cold water pumping out. Here's some of my Gopro footage of it:


    I see a small northern pike, alot of smallmouth bass, bluegill, no crappie 😕, & more rock bass than I've ever seen before. Rock bass is a fish I can shoot, under the limited list available to an underwater spearfisherman. They are a shore hugging fish so most of my shooting is done slithering through seaweed in a couple ft of water -weirdly fun.
    I see one extra large Snapping Turtle. They are the true predator kings of these waters. Snappers can get up to 76 lbs & can live a long time (up to 50 yrs). The little snapper you saw as a kid could be the same one you're straining to look at now through more aged eyes.
    Aggressive on land if bothered, they are relaxed & not a threat to a swimmer in the water. Their bite power is exaggerated -"snap a broom stick" -they have about the same bite power as we humans -170 psi- but their sharp beaks make their bites fearsome with its cutting ability. (Check out this amazing & crazy clip of a guy getting a snapper to bite his hand) https://youtu.be/F57z6ya-rnA

                         

  Surfaced at one point to find myself with a new fishing buddy.  A loon was about 20 ft away. Its head was underwater to get a better view of fish -exactly what I was doing; gave me a couple unconcerned looks, did a chattery loon laugh & dove out of sight.
     Loons & their mournful, wolf like cry, are a symbol of Wisconsin northwoods. They hang out & raise a family only in the northern 3rd of the state. Most other sightings south of here are migrants.                                                                     
     Awkward on land, they are awesome underwater -out maneuvering fish. They are the deepest diving birds & can dive down 200 ft! Wish I could have gotten an underwater view of it swimming -couldn't get close enough. 

Storm coming meant I had to quit early. Tis actually pretty cool being in the water when its raining. Found myself suppressing a giddy chuckle as I surface & my first thought was; "darn, I'm gonna get wet."🤔.  Weird seeing raindrop dimples on the surface as you look up. Boat traffic dissapears 😊. But, the sound of thunder -lightning threat- meant it was time to head in. 

   At my takeout spot I met a kayaker that said he organizes kayak trips & this is one of the more popular lakes for paddlers.    
   
We stayed at WAUBEE LODGE - about a 20 min drive from Maiden Lake. We love this place. The view from the balcony overlooking Waubee lake is great. Whole atmosphere of this place suits me. (See Cheryl Parnell's review at:  https://www.google.com/search?q=waubee            

WORTH THE TRIP?  Definitely! This is our 2nd time here. Athough it doesn't have the crappies I normally go after for our evening meal, the combination of clear water (Maiden lake usually makes the top 10 clearest lakes in Wisconsin -out of 15,000 lakes, thats saying alot) & all those Rock Bass make this one of our favorite lakes so far.    

GET TO THE BOAT LAUNCH  by putting  15700 Maiden Landing, Mountain, Wisconsin  into your GPS.  This accesses the smaller inlet to Maiden lake; a big, fun "lagoon", tucked away from the main lake -perfect for underwater exploring.           







   

Tuesday, August 21, 2018

SCUBA vs FREEDIVING


."

 
       "From birth man carries the weight of gravity on his shoulders. He is bolted to the earth. But man has only to sink below the surface & he is free." -Jacques Yves Cousteau 

  TO BREATHE, OR NOT TO BREATHE??🤔
     Whenever I talk about diving & spearfishing I'm often asked if I use SCUBA, & then; "why not?" -with SCUBA you can breath underwater. Why wouldn't anybody that wants to hangout under water use SCUBA??  Depends; this ability comes at a cost.

    Definitely a personal preference, SCUBA (self contained underwater breathing apparatus) suits some folks.  I can only speak to why freediving, also called breath hold diving, appeals to me.
 
    First of all, bubbles & noise from SCUBA are an unnatural phenomena to water creatures -not helpful if your goal is close encounters with live creatures.
   Heres a quote from a favorite book on this subject -DEEP by James Nestor; "It's no
 coincidence that many researchers are
Freedivers. I learned early on that Freediving was more than just a sport; it was also an efficient way to access & research some of the oceans most mysterious animals. 'SCUBA diving is like driving a 4x4 through the woods with your windows up, air conditioning on, music blaring,' one freediving researcher told me. 'You're not only removed from the environment,  you're disrupting it. Animals are scared of you.'"
 
    I lean towards keeping things simple & relying on the body's abilities. The attention needed to the gadgetry that goes with SCUBA is a turn off to me, as is the restriction of movement.
    Freedivers generally use longer fins to enhance swim ability, that, & having no tank on your back, makes the freediver swim like a seal compared to a SCUBA diver.
 
 MAMMALIAN DIVE REFLEX  -
  "Frogman Conversion", "Seal Brotherhood" "Aquaman..ness"                                                             Diving mammals;  Seals, whales, actually all air breathing creatures -but marine mammals live by this reflex- have an automatic bodily response when they dive that enables them to hold their breath for freakishly long times. A seals heart rate drops from 100 beats per minute to 10; Less oxygen is consumed, blood shifts from extremities to vital organs, the spleen contracts to produce more red blood cells.
    AMAZINGLY THE SAME THING HAPPENS TO US  as soon as we enter water & hold our breath. All you have to do is stick your face in water to initiate this response. (I just watched a guy on YouTube hold his breath, stick his face in a bowl of water & display a heart monitor. His heart rate dropped from 70 beats per min to lower 40's in a couple minutes).
    Its an amazing response & hugely contributes to the breath hold divers ability to enjoy, relax & stay below the surface longer.

   World record breath-holders: 
  • Curvier Beaked Whale; 2 hrs 17 min.
  • Elephant Seal; 2 hrs 
  • Sperm Whale; 90 min.
  • Dolphin; 20 min.
  • Human; 24 min. This was done after hyperventillating with pure oxygen before the breath-hold. Though the Guinness book world record, I -& some others- consider this unnatural & illegit. 
  • Human; 11 min 54 sec. By Branko Petrovic. Without the help of pure oxygen.
  • Me;  4 min 45 sec  😵
  • Overall record goes to a reptile -the Loggerhead Turtle; 10 hrs!
 
   FREEDIVING TAKES TRAINING                      It takes time, practice & work to get better at breath hold diving -making it more engaging to me. You can get better after just alittle training, but it takes years to come close to full potential -ongoing interest & joys of seeing improvement. Of course there are skills to learn & develop with SCUBA, but not to the extent of the breath holder, that relies 100% on the body's abilities.
 
   In the winter months -outside of lake diving season- I do 2 pool workouts a week focused on holding my breath -building my ability to handle oxygen deprivation/carbon dioxide buildup & staying relaxed as I move underwater -the main factor in longer breath holds.

   FREEDIVING VS SNORKELING  
   A snorkeler is mostly interested in staying on the surface, breathing steadily through the snorkel while gazing underwater  -love doing this too.
   The freediver uses a snorkel but spends alot more time below the surface on the limits of a single breath of air.
   To be an effective spearfisher -me, I need to get down to where the fish are & hang out with them abit  -without scaring them, i.e. breath hold.

      I like all of these dynamics of freedive/breath hold diving. Add the heightened awareness, "zoned in", effect of hunting fish in their element, & that underwater world is even more electrified -talk about being present in the moment!


    (I'll have to try this next time I see a Great White in a Wisconsin lake) 😁



 
 

   

Tuesday, July 31, 2018

LAKE MICHIGAN, DOOR COUNTY WISCONSIN

   Heading to the Big Pond  -"Michi-gami" -the indian word for lake Michigan meaning Great Water. This is OUR big pond -Lake Michigan is the only Great Lake totally within the U.S. border. Wisconsin claims over 400 miles of its shoreline.
   SEEKING MY FIRST VISIT below the surface of Lake Michigan. Have heard so much about this Great Lakes' water clarity; spots so clear you can see 100ft down! -the clearest inland lakes in wis have only 20-30 ft of clarity.
   Found further motivation after reading the book The Living Great Lakes by Jerry Dennis. He wrote about his journey by ship to all the Great Lakes. Loved his story. He speaks of his growing passion for the Great Lakes & the limitations of staying on the surface.  -"I wanted to get my arms around it, get to know it, to dive into it." -words that play into my own underwater interests.
   Two Rivers  -Friday we arrived at the Lighthouse Inn in Two Rivers. (Cheryl gives the motel a 4 out of 5 star rating. For her full review go to https://www.google.com). Located on a peninsula tucked into the lake -catching an extra amount of lake effect climate,  Two Rivers is called "the coldest town in Wisconsin."                                               Was able to visit a nearby beach that evening. Standing in that shockingly -achingly cold water -endless horizon, waves crashing in like an ocean, a surreal glaze of numbness creeps over me -too much to take in! Besides an overwhelming sense that this supreme natural wonder had a divine overseer, I find that sorting through some basic info helps me get my mind slightly around it & appreciate what Im looking at:                   
   Rock & Ice  -In a nutshell these are the two biggest natural factors in the formation of Lake Michigan. Glaciers (ice) from Canada followed river routes that were already there; bulldozing & gouging depressions into rock (the right kind of rock -shale stone) that was soft enough to give way & leave behind tremendous excavated swimming pools waiting to be filled in by all that melting ice & river flow...The Great Lakes!

   The Search Is On  Explored north into Door county the next  day, looking for the perfect beach spot with clear water & some rocky structure for my underwater interests. The Green Bay -west side of Door county wasnt clear enough. Checked out suggested beach & diving spots all the way to Gills Rock.  Tired from driving, we cooled off at Newport State Park beach on the north east side of Door county. Great beach with beautifully clear water, but lacking bottom features that attracts fish & makes underwater exploring interesting.

    Finally Found It! With time running out we decided to skip Washington island & its famous School House -pebble stone beach & focus on the east side of Door county, which typically has better water clarity.  Headed to Cave Point County Park. This was where we spent the rest of the day.                     
     Cave Point County Park is right next to Whitefish Dunes State Park -home of the highest dunes on the west side of Lake Michigan.  Cave Point attracts alot of people  that want to jump from the bluffs into beautifully clear, freezing cold lake michigan water. Heres where I was able to head below the surface. I wasn't dissapointed!
    Below The Surface -Did the shock treatment intro to the lake by jumping off a bluff without my wetsuit.  Was like cannon balling into ice water without the ice cubes.
   Even after donning my wetsuit later, I didn't think I'd last 5 mins -exposed skin on my face ached. But after a few minutes, that ache went away & I was very comfortable for the next hr!
    Noisy above the surface, with the waves & the chatter of the many people gathered along the bluffs, the great silence below the surface is striking. Add the pristine clarity of the water & you feel like you've entered another dimension.
     Didnt spearfish because the water is to cold here for panfish. Saw alot of small fish called Gobies or Darters, many thousands of Zebra mussels carpeting the bottom & a couple small schools of Herring/Shad or Alewives -looked like Sardines to me.
     The water never got much deeper than 20ft within a hundred yds of shore. Some underwater small bluff like rock formations were great fun to glide through. Hated to leave this liquid garden of Eden.
 
     Five words capture most of our Lake Michigan experience above & below the surface: Clear, Cold, Vast, Sand & Seagulls.

  • Clear -Why so clear? Zebra mussels have made Lake Michigan's water very clear in the last 20 yrs.  Also, water is more clear on the lake Michigan side of Door County vs GreenBay side, especially with a west wind.
  • Cold -Why so cold? Water temp depends on lake currents, which depend on wind direction. The lake Michigan side of Door county water gets coldest when a west wind blows warm surface water away, causing the colder deep water to come to shore. Water temps can be 49-60° in august (Most people find 70° to cold for comfort). 
  • Vast! -The 5th biggest freshwater lake in the world. At 307 miles long by 118 miles wide, this lake is over 4,000 times bigger than the largest Wis inland lake (Winnebago).
  • Sand -So many beautiful beaches! Where'd
    all this sand come from? -Rivers sweep tiny quartz pcs from the land into the lake.  Tiny, dense pieces -small enough to be swept to the edge of the lake, but dense enough to resist being washed far into the lake & to the bottom. Continued pounding by waves causes the tiny pcs to constantly bang into each other rounding & smoothing each other even more, becoming...sand.
  • Seagulls  -Properly just called Gulls- These super survivalists are so common that they often get a bum wrap on the appreciation scale. Yet nothing kicks up "Beach"  like crashing waves & the sound of seagulls! Seagulls are great parents & usually mate for life. They are one of the few birds that can drink salt water. They are the beach clean-up crew, doing their job so well they can be annoying. 
        Worth A Visit? Cave Point County Park made the trip especially worthwhile for us. Because of the rock formations, water clarity & big water wave action this would be a fun place to kayak. There is a kayak outfitter at Whitefish Dunes State Park.  Just going there to jump off the bluffs into the lake would be worth the trip. We'll be goin back for the amazing underwater experience! 
     50 miles NW of Green Bay, 150 miles north of milwaukeee. Get to this park by putting Cave Point County Park into your GPS. Find access to the lake to the left/north of the popular jump spot.
      



 

Tuesday, July 10, 2018

CRYSTAL LAKE, THE AMISH & KEEPING IT SIMPLE



   Our hunt for clear water & a fish dinner took us to Crystal lake in central Wisconsin near the town of Westfield in Marquette county about an hr northeast of Madison.
    Heading below the surface with my underwater version of a bow and arrow -a speargun, to sight see & to get a fish dinner. 
   My diving is simple and fits my minimalist personality -less is often more; fins, mask, snorkel, wetsuit & a breath hold. I dont use SCUBA.  Bubbles scare fish and the extra gadgetry inhibits the natural fit I aim for as I enter the fishes world. I accept & even enjoy the limits of a breath hold.


     Crystal Lake  -Internet tip was that this lake is beautiful, very clear, lots of crappie & hard to find. All true! When I finally found it I wasnt dissapointed! Public access is unmarked from the rd. After finally finding it, a 300 yd trail to the lake limits public accesss to mostly carry in kayaks & fishermen.
 
Below the surface -Right away plenty of bass came in to check me out. They are the the most fearless fish in these waters but off limits to me (Im only allowed to shoot panfish & rough fish -carp, sucker & gar) I see lots of bluegill & then the normally harder to find crappie -our meal of choice. Got to watch some "water wolves" -northern pike- cruising the shallows for their own meal. Great water clarity. I can see decently 20 ft down. Generally the deeper I go, the less fish I see. Most the fish are in only 5-10 ft of water.
                                                   
   Simple is better -Was reminded of this while leaving Crystal lake & ran into an Amish couple fishing. Enjoyed swapping fishing notes & methods. Gotta pic of their "car" in the parking lot.   We mainstream Americans often feel superior when we come across the Amish, more simple, "backwards" ways. ...even as we stress out in our own over buzzed, over scheduled, techno reliant lifestyles. I spent the nxt couple days learning bout "Amishness";  Amish stress living quietly & in harmony with God, nature, family & the land; mostly craftsman & organic farmers caring for their animals & plants -nothing is wasted or taken for granted. They emphasize self sufficiency & shun certain technology they see as detrimental to the best things in life.   -Sounds to me like they know how to live!

    In the evening we enjoyed a delicious lakeside meal; crappie fried in Louisiana Fish Fry seasoning, cornbeef hash, & fresh brewed coffee. Hungry & tired from the swim & the hunt, the smell & taste of the fish I got by my own effort hit the spot!
   
Worth a Visit?  Besides being hard to find, this would be a great lake for the kayak fisherman, or especially a swimmer with mask, fins & snorkel wanting to explore the 2016 Wis DNRs clearest lake in Wisconsin. We usually rely on GPS to get us to a lake, but not for this one. There is no address at the boat launch or nearby. From the town of Westfield take county hwy J east bout 1/4 mile to hwy E north. Follow E for bout 6 miles as it eventually heads east. Take hwy Y north for bout 5 miles until you pass Dakota lane. Be looking hard on the right/east for a driveway looking lane that leads to a small public parking lot & take the 300 yd walk in trail to the lake.                      


  Love Kimi Werners' ideas on spearfishing & exploring.